Welcome home, Mr President!

TR's Birthplace at
28 E 20th Street

Theodore Roosevelt is the only US President to have been born in New York City.  The country’s 26^th President was born in 1858 and lived with his family in a townhouse on East 20^th Street in Manhattan until he was 15 years old.  

The President’s childhood home was demolished in 1916 but when Roosevelt died three years later, the Women’s Roosevelt Memorial Association commissioned the impressively-named Ms Theodate Pope Riddle to rebuild it.   Ms Riddle was one of America’s first female architects and she drew upon historical records to faithfully reconstruct the property.  

The final design featured five period rooms (family bedrooms, a dining room, the sitting room, and the library), and also provided for two exhibition galleries, and an auditorium.  The completed building was then carefully decorated with many original furnishings donated by the late President’s sisters and his widow.  The top two floors of the brownstone, which originally would have housed the children's rooms, the bedrooms for servants, and the attic space, were not restored to their former glory.  They are now just used for office space, and are off-limits to the public.

A pennant flag from the
Presidential campaign 1904

The restored building opened as a museum in 1923 and was privately run for several years before being placed under the stewardship of the US National Park Service.   I was in the neighbourhood this morning and stopped by for a visit.  The downstairs area has a bit of a viewing gallery, with trinkets and black-and-white photographs of the President's career - right back to his early days as a cattle rancher in the Dakotas, the President of the NYC Board of Police Commissioners; Assistant Secretary of the US Navy; and Governor of New York State.

Bullet holes in Roosevelt's glasses
case & speech - reminders of an
assassination attempt in 1912

You start the tour by watching a 25-minute dramatisation of the President's early life.  I think it must have been filmed in the 1970s or 1980s, so you can just imagine.  But downstairs, you get a really good picture of how motivated the young President was to improve his physical and mental health, particularly to overcome childhood asthma and poor eyesight.  Once you take in all the memorabilia there, a representative of the National Parks guides you upstairs for a free tour of the "period rooms" so you can see how the Roosevelt family would have lived back in the day (the answer is very well, indeed).

I loved that the President kept a 4pm appointment every day so that he could play with his children, and he even invited senior White House officials to bring their kids along and join in.  But when he wasn't doing that - or running the country - the President was indulging in his favourite hobbies: hunting, jujitsu, and swimming naked in the Potomac.  I think I would have liked him.

Going a little mad in the Flatiron District

New York is in the midst of the Fourth of July long weekend.  Fortunately we're having a respite from the hot, muggy weather that characterised the early part of last week and instead, we've been blessed with the most beautiful clear days and warm sunshine.

After a lazy start to my Saturday, I wandered up the street to one of my favourite spots in the city, Madison Square Park.  I love this place at any time during the year, but especially in summer.  The boughs of the old trees spread right out over you, and the leaves protect you from the heat of the blazing sun overhead.  Sit on any of the wooden benches dotted around the Park and you can watch the world go by.  Best of all, when the Madison Square Park Conservancy says it's okay to do so, you can take a picnic blanket and lay out on the cool, green grass that they have so lovingly tended throughout the year.

In summertime, Madison Square Park teems with life - not just of the human variety, but well-fed pigeons and fluffy squirrels too.  Dogs also make the most of the fine weather - dashing to and fro in Jemmy's Dog Run, which includes a special section so smaller breeds can play safely.

In fact, play seemed to be the order of the day today.  Kids of all ages were squealing in the playground, named in honor of NYPD Officer Moira Ann Smith, who served with distinction in the Flatiron neighbourhood but was killed  on September 11, as she fought to save the lives of others.

On the other side of the Park, hungry adults waited patiently in the ever-present line at Shake Shack, the original and easily the most popular of the chain's stores.  The Madison Square Park Shake Shack opened in 2004 and is still a neighbourhood fixture.  I am too impatient to line up for their burgers and fries, but I have to say I was pretty tempted to join the queue today and splash out for some frozen custard or similar icy treat.

Madison Square Park has been providing New Yorkers with a Midtown refuge for generations.  The Park is named in honour of James Madison, the fourth President of the United States, and the principal author of the US Constitution.  You would scarcely believe it now, but the area upon which Madison Square Park was built used to be swampy hunting grounds.  It was later developed as a public marketplace and then the site of an early iteration of Madison Square Garden.  The area of Madison Square was always a fashionable spot to be, even when Manhattan's growing population ultimately forced the city's businesses and residents to spread out and move further uptown.

The Park was ultimately re-landscaped in the late 1800s by Ignatz Pilat, a former assistant to Frank Law Olmstead, the impressively-bearded fellow who developed Central Park.  

Pilat's design for the new Madison Square Park incorporated some of the statues that still feature there, including the rather grim-looking Roscoe Conkling, a politician who served in both US Congress and the Senate.  Conkling collapsed in the Park during the awful blizzard of 1888.  He had insisted on walking home from his Wall Street office, refusing to pay a cab driver the admittedly extortionate fee of $50 to ferry him home safely.  

There's also a statue of Chester A Arthur, the 21st President of the United States (which we all know from having seen "Die Hard: With a Vengeance").  Arthur was only the second US President in history - other than George Washington - to take the Presidential oath in New York City.  After a failed bid at re-nomination, Arthur returned to New York City to practice law and died here years later.

There's also a rather impressive statue of Civil War hero, Admiral David Farragut which overlooks a small plaza and fountain (currently being repaired).  Farragut had a very impressive military career and remained on active duty for life (one of only 7 US Naval Officers to achieve this distinction).  Farragut is buried in Woodlawn Cemetery in the Bronx and this impressive sculpture was erected in the Park to celebrate his memory.

Continuing the wartime theme, there's also the Eternal Light Flagpole at the entrance of the Park, which commemorates the return of American soldiers in WW1.  The flagpole was dedicated in 1923, and was carefully restored in 2002.  There is a star-shaped lightbulb atop the flagpole which is illuminated each night, as a permanent reminder of the courage and sacrifice of the fallen and returned soldiers.

Amidst all this New York history, Madison Square Park also plays host to many modern events throughout the year, such as food and wine festivals, but also features bold art installations and public programs too.

Currently on display are three sculptures by American artist Rachel Feinstein.  Her exhibition is entitled Folly and the three large-scale works have been produced in a style that was popular in 18th & 19th Century architecture.  The large sculptures depict a house on a towering cliff; a hut; and a flying ship that is moored high in a tree.  The structures will remain in the Park until early September.

What I like the most about Madison Square Park is that the City really uses it.  Whether you're lining up for a burger and fries, or you're just kicking back with a coffee to appreciate the views of the Flatiron Building and the Empire State Building, Madison Square Park is a real refuge from the hustle-bustle of the city streets.  It's certainly one of the City's precious green spaces that I never tire of visiting.

As usual, this is just a small selection of the photos I took today (with my new digital camera - yay!).  You can view the whole album below:

Post by The ABCs of NYC.

Throw your glasses at the wall, and good fortune to us all

When you walk through the doors of Mari Vanna, the Russian restaurant in New York's Gramercy neighbourhood, you're immediately thrown because you feel like you're in a Laura Ashley catalogue.  The restaurant has such a country cottage kitchen feel - warm yellow walls, wicker chairs, lace doilies on the table.  You catch yourself thinking, "it's nowhere near as ostentatious as the Russian Tea Room ", because it has the charming feel of a genteel home.  And just as this thought crosses your mind, you're handed a long list of the home-made infused vodkas on offer, and you realise this ain't no Laura Ashley anything.  This place means real Russian business.  And I liked it immediately. 

If I were taking a leisurely Friday lunch, you can bet I would have sampled at least one of the amazing vodka flavours, which ran the gamut from cucumber and dill, to pineapple and strawberry.  But alas, I needed to get back to the office, so a bubbly Prosecco quenched my thirst nicely.

I was brought up eating European foods courtesy of my Polish grandma, so I don't get squeamish when presented with anything pickled, brined, or preserved.  In fact today, I actively sought out the pickled herring as my starter on the two-course, $27 prix fixe menu. As you can see, it was served in a tiny jar of pickling liquid, dill, bay leaves, and peppercorns, with pieces of dark rye bread and plain boiled potatoes on the side.  So simple, and really delicious.

For my main course, I chose the chicken stroganoff.  Not an adventurous choice really, but I wanted the comfort food.  And indeed, it was perfect - creamy, and tangy and the serving was accompanied by fluffy mashed potatoes, which I haven't had in a long time.  Blissful.  The food coma crept in.  My afternoon productivity was going to suffer for sure.

 

But we weren't done yet, because our server delivered us complimentary mini strawberry martinis for dessert. Oh, those Russians!  The martinis were only tiny of course, and I couldn't taste much (any) vodka in mine, but it was icy cold, and the delicate strawberry flavour came through so beautifully.  Delicious!

Mari Vanna is located in a really busy area of Manhattan, but on a quiet side street alongside some of the most beautiful bars and restaurants I've been to in this City.  It's one of the most un-Russian Russian restaurants you'll ever visit, until you see the menu and appreciate the traditional cuisine and extensive vodka selection designed to wrap you in the kind of embrace you'd expect from your babushka.

Parks, polygons, and prosecco

When you live in a really small studio apartment in New York, you need to be ruthless about your belongings.  If clothes don't fit, or there's too much clutter, you have to get tough about it.  There's literally no room for sentimentality.

And so it was that I took a huge garbage bag full of clothes and books to my local Goodwill store this morning.  The last time I did that, a crazy man out the front threatened to stab me, though the security guard had been watching and just rolled his eyes.  I guess he says that to all the girls.  Today however, there was no such threat of violence, and so within just a few minutes I had deposited my worldly goods into the donation bin inside the store, and I was on my way.  There are loads of places like the Goodwill in New York, and they are life-saving way to get rid of stuff, but also a terrific source of inexpensive stop-gap clothing and furniture to see you through your settling-in period in the City.

Spring has definitely sprung in New York and I loved the sunny walk past the Flatiron Building this morning, and into to Madison Square Park.  It may not a private oasis, but this has always been one my favourite places to have down-time in New York.

As you can see from my photos, the trees still have some catching up to do before they're lush and green, but already the squirrels are out, digging up the nuts they had hidden during the winter, and posing genially for the cooing tourists.  The dog park and the children's playground were hugely popular, and the lines at the famous Shake Shack were typically ridiculous (but the smell of grilling meat was so good).  All around the park, visitors just like me clambered for sunny spots on the benches, to watch the world go by.

 

Just next door to the Park on East 26th Street is the National Museum of Mathematics.  The Museum opened in September 2012 and I only just realised it was even there.  I was always a terrible maths student of course, so I wasn't exactly looking for a place like this.  But when you walk inside, you quickly realise that this one of those off-the-beaten-path treasures of New York that inquisitive kids and adults just love.  Firstly the ticket booths are all automatic, and they spit out guest passes like ID cards that you have to wear clipped to yourself at all times.

The museum is very spacious and modern, and the exhibits are very much hands-on.  I should not have come here on my own though, partly because I looked ridiculous, but also because so much of the fun of the exhibits comes from your interaction with other people.  What is the point of playing with puzzles if you can't make jokes with others, or ask people what they did, or how things work?  Coming here on my own was a bit of a mistake, because I just felt out of place interacting with things solo.  Maybe that's my own insecurity talking, but it's certainly how I felt - and it made me just want to rush through the place rather than really take my time to explore.

Before long though I found myself back at the entrance and by the gift shop, and that's one place I never feel weird.  Indeed I judge museums and other cultural institutions by the quality of their gift shop.  And in the case of the gift shop at the Museum of Mathematics, what it lacks in size it makes up for in variety.  There are maths-themed books (for adults and kids), jewellery, clothing, and the usual kitschy key rings, postcards, and desk accessories.  I did not leave empty-handed.

All this brain strain had worked up a bit of an appetite though, so I walked north a few blocks and called into the John Dory Oyster Bar, which is part of The Ace Hotel on Broadway.  Every time I have tried to come here, the place has been packed.  But today I was lucky enough to find a colourful barstool upon which to perch and enjoy a half-dozen oysters (3 from the West Coast, and 3 from the East Cost), and a delicious bowl of spicy kedgeree, complete with tasty and flaky smoked haddock.  The ice-cold glasses of  Gotham Project prosecco didn't hurt either.

If you ever get the chance to have even a bar bite at this restaurant, you definitely should.  Their seafood is great, and so is the service.  But if time permits, you also need to head next door to the adjacent Breslin lobby bar and partake in their amazing cocktails.  Guaranteed to make you forget any inadequacies of high school maths classes, or weekend hands-on museum exhibits!

Some time with me, myself and I

You'd think that in a city as densely-populated as New York it would be hard to find space to be on your own.  People are always rushing to get somewhere, jostling you and getting in your face.  But you don't have to hide out in your apartment to get some peace and quiet.  There are places in New York - public places - where you can be alone, and take some time to just soak up the City and relax.

The Great Lawn, Central Park
In the middle of Central Park, from 79th Street to 85th Street, you'll find the Great Lawn.  They have concerts here during the year, but on sunny days the lush lawn becomes a haven for picnickers and sunbathers of all shapes and sizes.  Bring a rug or beach towel, a good book, and spend a few hours just soaking up the rays.  A good trick if you're coming in from the Upper West Side is to call into Zabars first and grab some lunch to enjoy when you finally find your Park spot.

Madison Square Park
Similar to the Great Lawn, but this green oasis is just closer to my house so it's my go-to hangout in summer.  This location has the added advantage of being opposite Eataly, so if you need the bathroom or a coffee or gelato, you're on a winner.  Don't bother lining up at Shake Shack, unless you want to be reminded of all the reasons you wanted to be alone in the first place.

Theatre/Cinema
It seems weird to think you could be alone in a crowded theatre or cinema, but nobody pays any attention to you when the lights go down and the show starts.  And buying a single ticket to a Broadway show is often an easy way to get the greatest seats, even at the last minute ticket booths.  But a warning - Sunday matinees are usually full of old, fairy-floss haired women who try and engage you in conversation during intermission.  Use this time to busily sort through your purse, or study the Playbill intently.

Battery Park
I love coming down here in sunny weather.  There are wooden benches overlooking New York Harbour and you can see the Statue of Liberty.  From that safe distance away, I like watching the tourists pushing and shoving each other to get on and off the cruise boats to Liberty and Ellis Islands.  Euphoric kids, exhausted parents.  And I like this location because there are always food trucks down there, usually selling churros.  Never a bad thing.

This is just a random selection of my favourite New York spots to go solo.   Getting out of town is also a great tonic, but not always possible, so I think it's important to find the places you can be alone here. The noise and the crowds and the craziness can do your head in otherwise.  And when you're in the right headspace, you feel calmer and you can appreciate the city, and the people who occupy it, a little better.

Ariel Sabar wrote a great book called "Heart of the City", a collection of "nine stories of love and serendipity on the streets of New York".  The people in these true stories aren't all from here, but the City certainly brought them together in a variety of ways.  In telling their stories, Sabar takes you on a tour of New York, from the city's iconic sites to the residential neighbourhoods of Brooklyn and the grimy back streets of Chinatown.  It's a wonderful book to make you look differently at New York, and remind you that while alone time is good, it is sometimes a good thing to actually engage with people, even in this crazy town.