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| Image credit: NY Times |
Taking out poll position in EaterNY's illustrious competition this year was Bȃtard, at the corner of Broadway and White Street in Tribeca. Bȃtard is not a huge place, but it has been consistently busy since it opened in May 2014. Like the restaurant reviews, Bȃtard's Michelin star has been glowing.
But while the critics have been raving, it is regular diners like you and me that vote in the annual Eater Awards competition. So why did we, the hungry people of New York, declare Bȃtard the Restaurant of the Year?
Loyalty might have something to do with it. One of Bȃtard’s owners is chef and restaurateur Drew Nieporent, whose two previous restaurants on this site also took their names from the Burgundy wine region of France – including Montrachet, that was open for twenty-two years; and Corton (which my friend sadly misses), that enjoyed a five-year run on this same spot. Bȃtard's name comes from the Bȃtard-Montrachet vineyard in Burgundy, famous for its chardonnay. But the name can also refer to a torpedo-shaped loaf of French bread, and the decidedly less palatable French word for "bastard". New Yorkers clearly respond to something edgy in their choice of restaurant.
A talented chef never hurts a restaurant’s chances in competition either. Bȃtard’s kitchen is under the expert control of chef Markus Glocker, who hails from Austria but whose cuisine is also influenced by his time working with the late Charlie Trotter in Chicago, and with Gordon Ramsay in London. Glocker clearly knows his audience too. He understands that New Yorkers get bored easily and that we want choice, innovation, and freshness in our dining experiences. Bȃtard’s excellent menu delivers that in spades.
But everyday New Yorkers also want value for money, and the flexible a la carte menu at Bȃtard allows diners to select an affordable 2-course menu for $55, a 3-course menu for $65, or a 4-course menu for $75. Whatever cost-effective option you choose, you're likely to also pick something from the extensive wine list to complement your meal.
And so it was that our dinner tonight was a 3-course affair, plus a delicious bottle of "silky, elegant" Saint Joseph Offerus (2011). My appetiser was the salty but creamy "octopus pastrami", which has been getting fantastic reviews. The spicy wholegrain mustard nearly blew my face off at first, but it was a delicious contrast to the saline octopus, when taken in small doses. Main course was the perfectly-cooked branzino (European sea bass). It was sitting on a bed of pureed butternut squash and grilled lettuce, which added a beautiful smoky flavour. For dessert I went back to previous diner reviews and had the caramelized milk bread, which is kind of like french toast, but with a brûlée coating. And with tart berries and sweet vanilla ice cream? Yes, please.
Bȃtard’s victory as Eater NY’s Restaurant of the Year 2014 guarantees you a tricky time getting a reservation, but you must persevere; the effort will be totally worth it. Democracy has never been so tasty.
