Monday, July 28, 2014

Transiting through the tenth circle of hell

Located just off Times Square at 8th Avenue and 42nd Street, the Port Authority Bus Terminal is the main gateway for interstate bus services into and out of Manhattan.  It opened in 1950 and is currently the largest and busiest bus terminal in the United States.  There are 223 gates at the terminal, servicing about 8,000 buses and 225,000 passengers every weekday.

But what you can learn only from first-hand experience is that the Port Authority Bus Terminal is also the one place in all of Manhattan that can drive a sane, able-bodied person to the brink of a total nervous breakdown in almost no time at all. 

I discovered this for myself last week when, on the spur of the moment, I decided to take the Greyhound bus from Port Authority to Atlantic City in New Jersey for a mini-break.  My return bus fare was only $44 and I thought that was a real bargain.  It all seemed like such a wonderful and cost-effective adventure.

But first I had to catch the bus and that, dear friends, is where my adventure truly began.

When I emerged from the subway and entered the Port Authority slipstream, I saw a number of departure screens that informed me what gate my bus would ultimately leave from, but they didn’t give me any idea how to find the bus office to print my ticket in the first place.  In fact, signage that would be remotely helpful in any regard is either displayed sporadically, or not at all.  Everywhere I looked, rush-hour crowds swarmed the Terminal, and trying to find 30 seconds to clear my head and get my bearings was pretty much impossible. 

After long, frustrating minutes of dragging my suitcase around the Terminal, I was desperate to find an information booth, or even just someone official who looked like they might work in this crazy nightmare.

By some miracle of the universe, I actually found the Greyhound bus office all by myself.  As expected, the ticket agent was as broken-spirited as I was starting to feel, and he wordlessly printed my tickets for me.  With a listless wave of his hand, the ticket agent dismissed me and I made my way downstairs to the labyrinth of bus departure gates. 

When my eyes finally adjusted to the dim subterranean lighting, I encountered the most colourful cast of characters I’d seen in a long time (even by New York standards). 

Squealing children ran riot through the corridors.  Obese women had shoe-horned themselves into tank tops and short-shorts.  Beer-bellied, sweaty-chested men refused to button up their grimy cotton shirts.  A Chinese woman loudly screamed in rapid-fire Mandarin at anyone who dared to get too close to her.   

Oh God, was this the queue to Atlantic City?  I had never felt more inclined to abandon a holiday so quickly in my life. 

There are about twelve chairs in the entire downstairs waiting area, all located next to the bathrooms, which you can smell from at least 20 feet away.  To preserve whatever vestige of sanity that remained, I stood in the vicinity of my bus departure gate, trying not to stare at the motley crew of passengers that filled the departing buses. 

After what seemed like an eternity in the tenth circle of hell, it was finally time to board my and I got on the end of the queue.  I stood behind two lovely ladies who seemed to find great humour in the depressing chaos around me.  One of the ladies was fanning herself with her ticket and I noticed that she and her friend were actually booked on an afternoon departure from New York.  Fearing I might actually be in the wrong queue after all, I asked the ladies how they were able to get seats on the 11am departure.  They explained that because none of the Greyhound bus seats are actually assigned, it’s a first-come, first-served thing.  You’re actually welcome to line up and squeeze onto an earlier departure, if you arrive in time.  You don’t even go on standby or need to get a new ticket or anything – you just line up and if there’s a seat on-board, you can have it. 

It appears the early bird gets to worm their way out of the Port Authority Bus Terminal first. 

When I was finally in my seat, next to the window and alongside a lovely young mother and her (mercifully) sleeping baby, the journey to Atlantic City was uneventful and actually quite pleasant.  It just seems that for those of us interested in cutting interstate travel costs, Port Authority Bus Terminal is a necessary evil. 

But there is a happy ending to this story.  The Port Authority Board recently approved a $90 million makeover for the whole terminal.  There is rather widespread disagreement on how the funds will be spent, but if they can just improve the lighting, signage, seating, and quality of the toilets, interstate bus travel from the Port Authority Bus Terminal will be a much more pleasant experience for everyone.