Thursday, April 24, 2014

Czech-ing in on the Upper East Side

I'm still house-sitting on the Upper East Side, but I've been a bit slack when it comes to exploring the neighbourhood in any detail.  Even with the two dogs in tow, we tend to just trudge the usual 2-block radius each morning and evening.

In an effort to redress this lameness tonight, I visited a lovely restaurant on East 73rd Street called Hospoda, which means “pub” in Czech.  When the restaurant first opened, its menu featured modern and traditional Czech cuisine, but these days it's inspired by three of my favourite things: beer, seasonal ingredients, and multiculturalism.  A much more all-encompassing affair, really.

Under the leadership of Michelin-starred Chef Rene Stein, the New American cuisine at Hospoda is prepared using beer (or its various ingredients at least), and upon request the restaurant will pair your meal with an assortment of amazing beers and wines.

And let me assure you, the menu is amazing.  I started with a Czech pilsner, and I was really pleased that it was served icy-cold in a tiny stein.  The menu is actually sorted in first, second and third courses (nothing unusual) but that is printed on the left side of the menu, while on the right side you have the dishes matched up with beer pairings.  So I had a main dish of duck, paired with a really hearty Belgian beer and boy, was it strong.  My dessert was a chocolate cake, served two ways (one of which was dehydrated - fancy pants!).  I went rogue at that point and had a Pinot Noir from the Finger Lakes in New York to go with it, but I don't regret my choice at all.   The meal was delicious, and the atmosphere was really beautiful.   Plus the service was great - we were spoiled on all counts.

Architecturally-speaking too, Hospoda is also a treat as it is located on the ground floor of The Bohemian National Hall, which was built in 1897.  In the late 19th Century, the social hall was a popular hangout for the City’s immigrant Czech and Slovak communities, who began to relocate to this 'Yorkville' neighbourhood from the Lower East Side, in search of more affordable housing.
For a long time, the social hall was the heartbeat of the vibrant European community.  It offered language classes, food service, and a venue for club meetings and social get-togethers for people of all ages.  Back in the day, the social hall had a restaurant and bar downstairs, while upstairs there were club rooms, a bowling alley, and a ballroom and theater space for dances.  It would definitely have been something to see.

But this building wasn't all singing, dancing, and eating; it saw some serious political action too.  During the First World War, the Bohemian National Hall served as the New York headquarters for liberation activities, which ultimately contributed to the carving out of what was then known as Czechoslovakia from the former Austro-Hungarian Empire.

These days, while Hospoda may be Czech in name only (with a couple of Czech beers to please you), the rest of the building hosts the Consulate-General of the Czech Republic.  And I suppose in this way, the legacy of The Bohemian National Hall lives on, safeguarding the next generation of Czech residents and visitors in New York.