Tuesday, July 29, 2014

Atlantic City: ocean, emotion, and lots of promotion


I came back to work yesterday after two weeks of annual leave.  I had initially planned a “staycation” in New York but instead, I made a couple of impromptu trips interstate, including to Atlantic City in New Jersey.

Once I had battled the madness of the Port Authority Bus Terminal, my express bus trip to Atlantic City last Monday only took about 2.5 hours.  There isn’t much to see along the freeways between New York and New Jersey, but I was too excited to sleep or read, so I just stared out the window and watched the world go by.

Long before Atlantic City’s giant casinos came into view, we passed billboards advertising all sorts of gaming venues, fine dining restaurants, and entertainment options.  I was on the edge of my seat by this point, but I had also started to wonder whether two days would really be enough time to see everything.

I’m not much of a gambler – or at least not a lucky one – so my motivation for coming to Atlantic City had very little to do with the casinos per se.  I definitely wanted to see how Atlantic City compared to Las Vegas (which I absolutely love); but I was also keen to visit the town that inspired the HBO series “Boardwalk Empire”.

Both Atlantic City and Las Vegas have large casino hotels, fine dining options, and outlet shopping malls.  They both also offer high-quality entertainment events.  Michael Buble, Aerosmith, and even Queen will play at Atlantic City’s historical Boardwalk Hall this month.  Live music shows pop up at the beachside bars, and I loved the “Le Noir” theatre spectacular that I saw at the giant Harrah’s complex (think “Cirque de Soleil”, only sexier). 

 But where Las Vegas has the lush greenery, non-stop neon sparkle, and the absurd excess, Atlantic City has a beautiful beach, historical boardwalk, and a long tradition of being a family-friendly holiday and recreation destination by the sea.

 The Atlantic City boardwalk was the first of its kind in the United States and opened on 26 June 1870.  The boardwalk is still lined with many old, art-deco buildings that would have looked magical in their day.  Sadly they’ve now been re-purposed to house souvenir shops and fast food outlets.  If you want to buy an icecream, or you need a pair of sunglasses for 99 cents, you’re in luck.  Development progress and bad weather (including Super Storm Sandy in 2012) have played a part in redefining the look of the Atlantic City boardwalk, forcing the closure of some of the luxury hotels or literally washing away some of the iconic architectural treasures of the past.  But every now and again you see glimpses of old-time Atlantic City, such Fralinger’s, where you can buy original recipe sweet and chewy salt water taffy, which has been sold on the boardwalk since the 1880s.

Atlantic City remains justifiably proud that the Miss America Pageant started there about 70 years ago, and they’ve hosted it ever since.  Steel Pier has jutted off the boardwalk for decades and remains a drawcard for daredevils looking to enjoy sideshow amusements and roller coaster rides.  Garden Pier has the Atlantic City Historical Museum and Art Center, and the Abescon Lighthouse and the Atlantic City Aquarium are within relatively easy reach of the boardwalk.  Atlantic City may not be as bright and brassy as Vegas, but it’s not a sleepy town by any stretch of the imagination.

Throughout my stay, the Atlantic City sunshine was consistently fierce, and there is very little shade along the boardwalk.  I suspect this is intentional, because you’re probably meant to fend off sunstroke by seeking refuge in the air conditioned casinos.  What I didn’t realise until I got home is that Atlantic City also operates a Jitney mini-bus service that will take you to various places in the area so you don’t always have to walk.    Had I known about the Jitney during my holiday, I suspect I would have arrived places looking much less bedraggled.  Had I been a little braver, I might also have taken one of the push-carts/rolling chairs, which are pretty much strollers for grown-ups.   They go up and down the boardwalk and I really wanted to ride in one, but I was too chicken to haggle with the driver and set a price.  Lame, I know. 

Atlantic City is advertised to have amazing dining options but most of the top-shelf restaurants are actually closed on Mondays (and sometimes Tuesdays too).  Other than a truly amazing sub sandwich at the 60 year old, jam-packed White House Sub Shop (which rendered dinner unnecessary), as well as a predictably delicious watermelon margarita at Jimmy Buffet’s Margaritaville, I didn’t get to have any life-changing meals or cocktails.  I just visited at the wrong time of the week; perhaps I will get back to Atlantic City one weekend and remedy that.  And maybe then I’ll be brave enough to engage a rolling-chair driver to deposit me back at my hotel in style.

My new digital camera also got a bit of a workout in Atlantic City and you see my photo album here: